Sweet Rhode Island Red
Could you do a quick post somewhere on how you do your models? I have a working knowledge of Solidworks, but not sure what approach to take.
That’s more than a quick post!
The basics are simple: you draw three views, and then you extend and trim surfaces until you find all the “corners”, the line between the deck and topsides, the keel, the chine, the stem, etc. Then loft between the edges. Voila you have a hull.
The key to making a changeable model is to never use your “schematic” sketches (three views) in the lofts. If all the sketches for your lofts are copied from the schematic views (via convert entities), then you can make changes to the overall design by tweaking the schematic sketches, and everything will fall into place. Most of the time…
chris
About the tillers - if the tiller is made forked so it fits around the top of the rudder and is pivoted to it at the back of the rudder with a light bungee or a ball catch to hold it in place then :
If the rudder kicks up in one (less likely) direction then the tiller is lifted along with the rudder and
if the rudder kicks up in the other (more natural) direction then the tiller stays where it is but pivots on the back of the rudder as the rudder kicks.
The forked tiller allows the rudder to be moved without putting those (possibly quite large) forces through the pivot at the back of the rudder.
Does this make sense ?
Does it solve the problem ?
It might solve the problem. It adds a little complexity compared to a monolithic solution. But a good idea.
Its also complicated a little by the curved tube which supports the rudder. I was actually planning to make the tiller that way, but then I realised the support would interfere with the forked connection. You have to go to a side connection I think, which is less elegant.
-Thomas
Its also complicated a little by the curved tube which supports the rudder. I was actually planning to make the tiller that way, but then I realised the support would interfere with the forked connection. You have to go to a side connection I think, which is less elegant.
-Thomas
Not necessarily - just extend the rudder upwards so that the tiller sits above the level of the curved tube. If that sets the tiller too high at the hand then put a downward curve in the tiller after it has passed beyond the curved tube.
Peter
Details, details.
Round and round the design spiral we go. I keep coming back to Red as the simplest proa I can think of. So I refined some details.
First are the rudders, which look complex, but are just simple two sided CNC parts—machined on one side, no flips. I’ve also moved them back quite a bit, and made them deeper. I think that the tillers should be fairly accessible too either seated on the vaka or from the bridge deck. They don’t look terrible either.
The bridge deck is new too. I made a perforated 3/4’ plywood seat like this for my wa’apa and it is surprisingly light and rigid. This one spans 5’ and cantilevers about 14” on either side, so there are ribs underneath to support it. The perforations relieve wind load but let spray through. They also provide plenty of hand holds and places to lash stuff down.
With only 120 square feet of boomless gibbons rig, its not a powerhouse, but it should get her moving. Easy reefing by rolling up the sail on the yard, on deck, should be relatively drama free.
The boat draws 20” at 1200lb. And the rudders are 4” deeper than that, but kick up, or they can be eased back to be at keel depth. Of course they are not down at all on upwind courses.
If this largely foil-less boat can go to windward well, it may be a pretty formidable Raid boat. The simplicity of building without any trunks is pretty cool.
Anyway, those are some new details.
Here’s a rudder close up.
Looking good. The rudders have an organic, neo-deco look. Actually, I guess the streamlined pod and seat supports continue that theme. I much prefer the new perforated ply seating.
I agree the perforated platform is slick, may need to be imitated.
If you are going to have side mounted rudders, Red’s current ones are about as simple as can be.
Very nice,
Skip
Much appreciated, Skip.
I have those same perforations on my Wa’apa seats and was blown away by how light and stiff they are. Nice to sit on too.
Its remarkable what you can draw, when robots do all the cutting for you!
Any Nomad or Broomstick news?
Much appreciated, Skip.
Any Nomad or Broomstick news?
I’ve graduated to one pound weights in my rehab so will slowly pick up finishing the Broomstick, may get it in the water if there’s a warm spot in late February. Current plan is to trial the cambered panel sail first, it’s about half done. Second may well be a wingsail, still ambivalent about the deal but Peter Worsely’s circular cam is such a purely elegant concept I feel driven.
Nomad remains next in line, much depends on the results with the Broomstick.
Cheers,
Skip
I’ve graduated to one pound weights in my rehab so will slowly pick up finishing the Broomstick, may get it in the water if there’s a warm spot in late February.
Cheers,
Skip
Good luck Skip, very eager to see your reports
Tink
Peter Worsely’s circular cam
This cam sounds interesting. I’m having no luck on the internet, could you explain what it does?
-Thomas
It was suggested that we move the wingsail discussion to a dedicated topic so to keep everything nice and well organized for future generations. So please continue over here: Wing Sails on Proas!
Thank you for your understanding,
Editor
I love this last renderings Chris, it is coming back to simplicity with that great platform, and even the rudders seem to be part of it, and not an add-on!