And a new thread is born.
Well I started the model. Went with the Gorilla glue and some 4mm Ply I had laying around. working well.
I’m building it 1/6 scale as it allows me to get some kind of accuracy using my standard tools and not running out to buy mini modeler tools. so a 4ft model to represent my 3 sheet boat.
I’ll include the chine runner to begin with, I can always cut it off. try it first then add rudders if needed.
Bulkheads at 25% and 33% to play with the mast layout.
A little more progress. Got a bunch of dimensional dowling to start gabbing up the masts and junk sails. These are 1/2”, making the real world size 3” diameter. at 3’ long with a 4”+ burry in the hull, it makes them 18’ long with 16’- above the deck. The sails will be small enough that i won’t need tackle on the halyards, so if I allow 18” for the hoist and 18” at the deck, I end up with @ 104ft2 per sail if I use an 8ft chord.
There’s 12” of rocker in the hull. at nominal 8” waterline and assuming a .65 prismatic, my displacement should be @ 1180lbs, making the bruce# 1.37 loaded to full displacement, not bad for a camp cruising boat.
Should I throw this on a new thread?
Laid out the sail. Marked out the camber, started to sew it in with a needle and thread. Bagged that idea. I’ll just build them flat for now. The idea is to have the forward sail with the camber free and clear to the lee of the mast while the aft sail’s camber is flattened against the mast. This should give the foresail significantly more power on each shunt than the aft, hopefully allowing me to sheet the aft in to the point of actually providing some drive without having to over sheet for balance. I won’t be able to test this with no camber in the sails, and the windward ability will be hampered as well.
I wonder where one goes to learn how to sew…..
What material are you using for the sail? I usually use mylar drafting film and use double sided tape for seams. Model yacht sails are rarely sewn.
Mal.