Beside my building space they have started to build a shop. So the big entrance is blocked and we just can use the small one in front of my land. That means that the mainhull, sidehull, beams and cockpit have to be brought to the beach and glued together there.
The windows and hatches, the anchor winch and the chainplates are in place. Now we finish the cockpit. I hope we can finish painting next week. I also have to start with the rig then. I wanted to buy the whole rig from Rolly Tasker, one of the biggest sail and rig makers in Asia, but they refused to do the work because they said they do not want to make experiments. So I will make the mast from wood. In the internet I found some measurements of masts of similar size and similar sail area. That should be strong enough. I will make it in birdsmouth system from a local wood that is quite flexible and light. On one of the pictures you see the wood for maststep on top of the deckhouse.
One of the pictures shows the underside of the cockpit with the inside construction before it is covered with plywood and glass.

Cheers
Alexander

Thanks for keeping us updated, Alexander. The boat is really looking great. I love the big, comfortable cockpit as well, wouldn’t do without it, especially in the tropics.

Your boat is looking fantastic.  It looks yacht like, in the best kind of way.  The cockpit sure looks cozy.  I’m interested to see how you tackle the shelter.

How much is it going to weigh?  I went back over the thread to see some basic specs (length, beam, BWL, LWL, sail area) but did not find them.  Could you post that?

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your project.

Chris

We started building the mast this week. Unfortunately there was not a lot of long wood available and will not be in the next weeks, so we had to buy some 3,5m planks also what caused a lot of scarfing. To cut the “birdsmouth” we lent a big router and fixed it from under the worktable so we could slide the battens over it. After some correcting grinding we fitted the battens together without glue to see if they were correct and if the clamps we got made work well. I was not satisfied with these so we tried spanish winches. They are strong and cheap. One every foot or closer was needed. We took it all apart again and glued it then. The blue tape on one of the fotos marks the two battens that got no glue so we can take two halves apart and sand and epoxy the inside and glue in a plastic pipe for the wires. In the center of that picture you see the light from the other side. The mast is straight.

It seems I never posted numbers about Nixe. So here are some:

Length over all     11.80
Beam over all       7.82
Distance of keels     6.20
Beam mainhull       2.40
Length sidehull       7.90
Beam sidehull       0.84
Draft mainhull         0.55
Draft sidehull         0.35
Mast length         11.25
High above water     13.30
WL length Mainhull   11.00
WL beam Mainhull   0.90

Weight total about   1’800 kg
        Mainhull       1’200 kg
        Sidehull         230 kg
        Cockpit         130 kg
        Beams each     80 kg
        Mast             60 kg
The mainhull we only could weigh with lever arms and calculating how much wood we used, But there are also two layers fiberglass outside and inside one in most areas. So the 1’200 kg are not precise. The other numbers we got weighing the parts. The waterline is based on the above numbers and is drawn at the hull at 60 cm so freshwater and all the stuff that is needed to live in Nixe should be within the limit.

Sails Main           15.4 qm
      Genoa           27.5 qm
      Fore             13.8 qm

Cheers
Alexander

I’ve built a dozen or more birdmouth spars from double blade paddle shafts to 24’ spars and never thought of leaving glue out of a couple of joints so as to be able to work on inside of spar. Thanks so much for sharing the technique.

Looks like a really nice build,
Skip

Hi Skip
The idea not to glue No.1 and No.5 batten I found here:
http://www.clintchaseboatbuilder.com/Birdsmouth.html
A very nice page.

Cheers
Alexander

Hello Alexander,
I have some questions to the akas, if you don’t mind:
How deep is the bury, and how are they attached to the hull?
Do they protrude into the cabin?
The boat is looking great. Keep us posted.
Cheers,
Peter

Hi Peter

The beams protrude inside the main hull about 80cm and are glued and screwed between two half bulkheads. The underside of them two meters out is one piece with the cockpitseats. The cockpit itself has four battens which protrude about 60 cm inside the hull and are there glued and screwed to two more half bulkheads. Inside the side hull they are glued to two full bulkheads each and go town into the hull. The upper und lower side of the beams are screwed to the gunwale and connected also with fibreglass. Also I have a 5mm cable from near the end of the beams to a bulkhead in the main hull at the after end of the ruddertrunk. I can use that for a net outside the cockpit. That all will make a very strong connection between the two hulls.
On the picture (from December) you see the battens from the cockpit one going inside the double bulkhead, one going inside in the entrance. The smaller opening beside is for a beam. The bulkheads beside hold it.
Thanks for the compliment.

Cheers
Alexander

Inside the boat the floor is finished now. I took 4mm plywood in teak design (I think it is only a paper on cheap plywood) glued it on the existing floor, cut slots out with a router and filled them with white epoxy filler. Two coats epoxy, sanding, urethane varnish, finished. The holes are over the water tanks. I will glue in covers in plastic and put round plates of the same material as the floor on top.
Tomorrow we will glue the two halves of the mast together. We have to clean them and sand off some epoxy drops before. I bought halyard exits in stainless for the outside and in plastic for the inside (they did not have enough for both in stock) so the halyards to not chafe on the wood. The yellow pipe contains the wires for the navigation lights and is glued in every meter with a piece of fibre. One person is actually working on the mastfoot, the masthead and the fitting at 7 meters heigh where the halyards for the small foresails go in and a pole going down to the side hull to support the mast sits.
Blocks under deck where the clamps sit are glued in, the switchpanel and wires for the lighting inside is nearly finished. I see light at the end of the tunnel.

Cheers
Alexander

Hello Alexander,

thanks for your explanation.
It is very similar to what I have myself. Good to know.
Cheers,
Peter

Just two pictures from the finished floor and the finished mast.
The mast was about one month work for one man including constructing the masthead and mastfoot in stainless. Only the halyard exits and the rollers were bought. I don’t know if one month is a lot of time for a hollow wooden mast of 11.25m length and 15cm diameter at the mastfoot constructed in birdsmouth fashion. It is epoxied three times inside and outside and coated with urethane varnish three times. It has five halyards, three at the masthead and two at 7m high. Electric cables are in a pvc pipe glued inside the mast. Do you know if that is a normal building time?
Under the floor are the water tanks. Inspection holes are round plastic openings. I put a plastic sheet on them and poured epoxy filler on it, put a piece of fiberglass into and pressed the 4mm plywood with the same design as the floor on it. So I have a strong cover over the plastic openings that fits exactly.

Cheers
Alexander

That’s a mighty nice looking mast there!  Did you happen to weigh it?

Your project looks really cool—I really like the aesthetic.

chris

Hi Chris

Yes, I did. The mast without fittings, masthead and mastfoot is 60kg.
Thanks for your compliments.

Cheers
Alexander

Boat is looking good. How long before he gets wet?